Ingredients

Allantoin

0.5–2 % effective dose

Allantoin is a compound found in plants such as comfrey and also produced naturally in the body. Topically it is used as a soothing, moisturizing agent that helps calm irritation and support skin repair, and at higher concentrations it has a keratolytic effect that softens and sheds rough surface cells.

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is a plant-derived gel whose polysaccharides and other compounds soothe skin and support wound repair. Topically it adds light hydration and is associated with faster healing of minor burns and superficial wounds. It is most often used as a calming, post-sun or post-procedure ingredient.

Alpha Arbutin

1–2 % effective dose

Alpha arbutin is a stabilized, naturally derived skin-brightening agent and a more potent form of arbutin. It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme that controls melanin production, which gradually reduces the formation of excess pigment. It is considered a gentler alternative to hydroquinone for fading dark spots.

Azelaic Acid

15–20 % effective dose

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It normalizes keratinization to unclog pores, calms the redness and bumps of rosacea, and inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase to reduce excess pigment. This multi-target profile makes it useful across acne, rosacea, and melasma.

Bakuchiol

0.5–1 % effective dose

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound from Psoralea corylifolia that is structurally unrelated to retinoids but produces retinol-like effects on gene expression. It supports collagen production and cell turnover while offering antioxidant activity. It is often positioned as a gentler, plant-based alternative to retinol.

Benzoyl Peroxide

2.5–10 % effective dose

Benzoyl peroxide is a topical antibacterial agent used to treat acne. It works by releasing oxygen into the pore, which kills Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria tied to inflammatory breakouts, and it also has a mild peeling action that helps clear pores. Unlike antibiotics, bacteria do not develop resistance to it.

Centella Asiatica (Cica)

0.1–1 % effective dose

Centella asiatica, often labeled cica, is a botanical extract rich in triterpenoid compounds such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. These actives support collagen synthesis, calm inflammation, and reinforce the skin barrier, which is why cica is widely used in soothing and repair products. It is most associated with reducing redness and supporting wound healing.

Ceramides

1–2 % effective dose

Ceramides are lipid molecules that make up a large share of the skin barrier, where they sit between skin cells alongside cholesterol and fatty acids to seal in water and keep irritants out. Topically applied ceramides replenish this lipid matrix, reinforcing the stratum corneum and reducing transepidermal water loss. They are a foundational moisturizing and barrier-repair ingredient rather than an active that drives a single visible change.

Ferulic Acid

0.5–1 % effective dose

Ferulic acid is a plant-derived antioxidant most often used to stabilize and boost vitamin C and vitamin E serums. On its own it neutralizes free radicals, but its signature role is improving the chemical stability of notoriously unstable L-ascorbic acid while enhancing the formula's overall antioxidant performance. It is a supporting active that makes daytime antioxidant serums more effective.

Gluconolactone (PHA)

4–10 % effective dose

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), a next-generation hydroxy acid with a larger, multi-hydroxyl molecule. It exfoliates the skin surface like an AHA but penetrates more slowly, while also acting as a humectant and antioxidant that helps reinforce the stratum corneum barrier.

Glycerin

5–20 % effective dose

Glycerin (glycerol) is a small humectant molecule that draws water into the outer layer of the skin and helps hold it there. By increasing stratum corneum hydration it supports a smoother surface and a better-functioning skin barrier. It is one of the most widely used moisturizing ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

Glycolic Acid (AHA)

5–10 % effective dose

Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha-hydroxy acid, allowing it to penetrate readily and loosen the bonds between dead surface cells to promote exfoliation. With consistent use it stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal. It is water-soluble and works best on the skin surface, making it a workhorse for texture and tone.

Hyaluronic Acid

0.1–2 % effective dose

A glycosaminoglycan that holds many times its weight in water. Topical hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws moisture into the upper layers of the stratum corneum.

Hydroquinone

2–4 % effective dose

Hydroquinone is a skin-lightening agent that inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme needed to produce melanin, thereby fading dark spots and melasma. It is long regarded as the most effective topical depigmenting ingredient. It is typically used at 2% (formerly over-the-counter) or 4% (prescription).

Kojic Acid

1–2 % effective dose

Kojic acid is a fungal-derived compound used to lighten areas of excess pigment. It works by chelating copper at the active site of tyrosinase, the enzyme that controls melanin production, thereby slowing the formation of new pigment.

Lactic Acid

5–12 % effective dose

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in skin as part of its moisturizing factor. Applied topically, it loosens the bonds between dead surface cells to promote gentle exfoliation while also acting as a humectant that draws water into the stratum corneum.

Licorice Root Extract

1–5 % effective dose

Licorice root extract is a botanical derived from Glycyrrhiza species, valued in skincare for its brightening and soothing compounds, chiefly glabridin, licochalcone A, and glycyrrhizin. Glabridin inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme that drives melanin production, which can help fade uneven pigmentation, while other components calm inflammation.

Mandelic Acid

5–10 % effective dose

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from bitter almonds with a relatively large molecule. Its size slows penetration into the skin, so it exfoliates dead surface cells and helps regulate keratinization more gradually than smaller AHAs, which tends to make it better tolerated on sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

2–10 % effective dose

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) supports the skin barrier and modulates sebum production. It is one of the most well tolerated actives in skincare.

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)

1–5 % effective dose

Panthenol is the alcohol form of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) and is also called dexpanthenol in its topical form. Once absorbed it converts to pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A needed for normal skin cell function, and it acts as a humectant that increases stratum corneum water content.

Polyglutamic acid (gamma-PGA) is a large amino-acid-based humectant biopolymer that binds water and forms a thin moisture-trapping film on the skin surface. It is marketed as holding more water than hyaluronic acid and may support natural moisturizing factors and reduce water loss. It is used in serums and moisturizers at low concentrations.

Polyglutamic Acid

0.1–2 % effective dose

2/5

Retinaldehyde

0.05–0.1 % effective dose

Retinaldehyde (retinal) is a vitamin A derivative and one of the most potent non-prescription retinoids. It sits just one conversion step from active retinoic acid in the skin, so it acts faster than retinol while typically irritating less than prescription tretinoin.

Retinol

0.025–1 % effective dose

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid in the skin. Retinoic acid binds nuclear receptors that regulate keratinocyte differentiation and collagen synthesis.

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

0.5–2 % effective dose

Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid that penetrates oily pores and dissolves the bonds holding dead skin cells together. By exfoliating inside the follicle it clears and prevents comedones, and it also has mild anti-inflammatory action. This oil-soluble profile makes it especially suited to acne-prone and oily skin.

Snail mucin (snail secretion filtrate) is the filtered secretion of garden snails, used as a leave-on skincare ingredient. It is a mixture of glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycans, allantoin, and antioxidants thought to hydrate skin and support its barrier and repair processes.

Snail Mucin

2/5

Squalane

1–100 % effective dose

Squalane is a lightweight emollient and a stable, hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid the skin naturally produces in sebum. Applied topically, it softens the skin surface and helps the barrier hold onto moisture by reinforcing the lipid layer between skin cells. It is valued as a non-greasy moisturizing base rather than as an active that targets a specific concern.

Tea Tree Oil

5–5 % effective dose

Tea tree oil is an essential oil from the Australian Melaleuca alternifolia plant with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity against acne-related bacteria. Applied topically in diluted form it can reduce inflamed and non-inflamed acne lesions. It is typically used as a spot or leave-on treatment rather than at full strength.

Titanium Dioxide

25 % effective dose

Titanium dioxide is an inorganic (mineral) UV filter used in sunscreens, where it sits largely on the skin surface and absorbs and scatters ultraviolet light. It provides broad-spectrum protection against UVB and shorter-wavelength UVA, and is frequently paired with zinc oxide to extend coverage into longer UVA wavelengths. It is valued for being gentle on sensitive and reactive skin.

Tranexamic Acid (Topical)

2–5 % effective dose

Tranexamic acid is a topical active best known for treating melasma and stubborn discoloration. It interrupts the signaling between skin cells and pigment-producing melanocytes, which lowers excess melanin production and helps calm pigment driven by inflammation and UV exposure. This makes it useful for both melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Tretinoin

0.025–0.1 % effective dose

Tretinoin is prescription all-trans retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A that binds retinoid receptors directly without the conversion retinol requires. It accelerates cell turnover, normalizes follicular keratinization, and stimulates collagen synthesis. As the most potent and best-studied topical retinoid, it is a benchmark for both acne and photoaging treatment.

Urea

5–40 % effective dose

Urea is a naturally occurring component of skin's moisture-retaining system, used topically as a humectant and keratolytic. Its effect is concentration-dependent: lower percentages draw and hold water to hydrate skin, while higher percentages loosen and break down thickened, scaly skin.

Vitamin C (Topical, L-Ascorbic Acid)

10–20 % effective dose

L-ascorbic acid is the most bioactive topical form of vitamin C and a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals generated by UV exposure. It also serves as a cofactor for the enzymes that stabilize and crosslink collagen, supporting firmness, and inhibits melanin formation to even tone. To penetrate skin it must be formulated at a low pH, generally below 3.5.

Zinc Oxide

5–25 % effective dose